H-8010 Burner Control Kit
Made to fit on a 55 gallon barrel, or can be adapted to your own stove. Not for indoor residential use. Because it is a kit, this control kit is not UL approved.
If you want to create your own heater, the H-8010 gives you the means to make an economical and clean burning used oil, heater out of a barrel, large wood stove, or other enclosure. It is made to fit on a 55 gallon barrel. By modifying the length of the Combustion Air Pipe (2" black iron pipe) and fuel line(1/4" OD steel tubing), it can be made to fit other enclosures, or can be adapted to your own stove. Detailed instructions with photos show how the H-8010 mounts on a 55-gallon barrel and how it operates.
Everything in the H-8010 is made and put together in a specific way to burn used oil cleanly and safely to produce a lot of good heat. The H-8010 supplies the following to burn waste oils cleanly and efficiently:
- Control flow of fuel
- Control of combustion air
- Intense heat for vaporizing oil
- Thorough mixing of oil vapors and combustion air
Because the Burner Control Kit creates very clean and efficient combustion, this means there is a lot of heat available! The trick is making effective use of that heat without most of it going up the flue. You need two things: a large heating surface, and air movement to transfer heat. (Our PapaBurn, MamaBurn, and BabyBurn heater kits contain a large number of steel heat exchanger tubes, a baffle and a blower to give you the maximum heat from your used oil.)
The Combustion Air Downpipe must be centered above the Combustion Chamber. The end of the Downpipe should be 4” to 6” above the Combustion Chamber. The length of the horizontal or vertical part of the Combustion Air Pipe can be lengthened. Also, it can be run through the side wall of the enclosure instead of coming down through the top. If the Combustion Air Pipe is run through the side wall, the fuel line will need to be changed to run through the top of Combustion Air Blower above the blower wheel to keep it inside the Combustion Air Pipe. The fuel line must be kept out of the heated area or it will coke up and stop fuel flow. We use 1/4” OD brake tubing, or 1/4” copper tubing could be used with compression fittings.
The firebox area needs to be a minimum of 16” x 16”. The Combustion Chamber requires a 10” x 10” door opening. For adjusting air-fuel mixture, you need to be able to see into the Combustion Chamber to see the fire. A sight hole above the door is required if the door opening is not high enough. (A sight hole is best because there is less chance of smoke coming out, especially at startup.) When adjusting the air-fuel mixture and looking through the sight hole, you need to be able to reach the Oil Pump’s speed control and the Combustion Air Blower inlet plate.
A 6” flue pipe is required and should go straight up for best draft. If the flue pipe is horizontal, make sure it is slanted up going away from the heater. The end of the flue pipe should be vertical for several feet and have a rain cap at the top.
During a power outage, the pump and blowers will not run, and the fire will go out. However, if you do not turn off the pump, it will come back on when power is restored. Since there is no fire, the oil will fill up the bottom of the heater and run out on the floor. With the Power Outage Control, when there is a power outage the oil and combustion air supplies are turned off until reset.
For on top of a 30 or 55 gallon barrel reservoir to filter out large particles that would plug a 60 mesh suction screen.
- Variable Heat:
- 70,000 Btu to 180,000 Btu
- Oil Consumption:
- 1/2 to 1 1/4 gallon per hour
- Electrical requirements:
- 2 Amps, 115 VAC, 60 Hz